Thursday, December 13, 2007

Passing Time


Most of the buses here have TV screens to keep commuters entertained.

But they're mostly of infomercials that become tedious after watching them at least 10 times during the ride.

There's only so many toothpaste, detergent, milk and Olympics commercials you can watch over and over and over again.

Rush hour after work has more interesting programming, broadcasting news, and in the evening, entertainment magazine shows.

And the newest subway, Line 5 is taking TV shows to a new level.

The screens on the platforms and in the trains are now showing Tom and Jerry cartoons. And everyone watches them transfixed.

They're watching the escapades of the cat and mouse for the first time, while for me it brings back childhood memories.

The cartoon viewing does make the time go by fast... and if you're not paying attention you could miss your stop.

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Chinese Texting

People here are constantly on their cell phones.

They aren't necessarily "talking" to someone directly, but their thumbs are madly punching away at the touch pad.

They're fa duan xin or texting messages to each other as the air time is much cheaper than speaking voice to voice.

And they have come up with some interesting short cut texting vocabulary that involves lots of numbers and a bit of creative interpretation.

For example, "88" is ba ba which is similar to "bye bye".

Another is "3x" or "san-x" is "thanks".

"520" or "521" sounds sort of like wo ai ni or "I love you", while 537 is wo fang qi is "I'm angry".

There are so many numerical combinations to create phrases that pretty soon Chinese may become a numeral language kind of like pig latin for those in the West.

Except this may become a lingo that people won't let grow out of quite easily...

Monday, December 10, 2007

White Stuff in Beijing


We had our first snowfall last night.

Luckily it wasn't a big dump of the white stuff, but enough to make it feel cold.

Unfortunately the sky was dreary looking otherwise I'm sure most people would have been in a more cheerful mood. Instead everyone just focused on commuting to work on time... or there abouts.

I managed to flag down a taxi quite quickly, but soon after there was a huge traffic jam on the roads. My driver tried to take a short cut I like to use when the fourth ring road is jammed. But then that side street was hardly moving.

He had to do a U-turn and take another route that was a bit further.

"It's not usually like this," he said referring to the short cut. I think he was afraid I would be angry.

It doesn't matter," I said.

About 35 minutes later we finally made it to my office.

The meter said 29RMB, but the driver felt bad about the longer route and said I could pay 25RMB instead.

"It doesn't matter, " replied. "It's more important that I get here safely."

I think he was pleased to hear this. But really, it's OK. He wasn't trying to take me for a ride.

After I got into the office it snowed a bit harder, but it didn't stick to the roads. By lunchtime it stopped snowing, but it was still cold.

Interestingly enough my commute home on the bus was a breeze.

Perhaps all the shock of the snow had worn off and people were back to driving as normal.

Sunday, December 9, 2007

Artistic Homecoming


Chinese contemporary art is a hot acquisition these days.

But a Belgian couple beat many collectors to the punch over 20 years ago.

Guy and Myriam Ullens have come to China in these two decades, visiting periodically and buying up art from a group of artists now known as the '85 New Wave.

After the death of Chairman Mao and emergence of Deng Xiaoping and his open door policy in 1979, Chinese artists began to get more exposure to the outside world, as Western culture forced its way into the country.

These artists began documenting the societal changes they saw around them in their work.

The Ullens collected lots of pieces and less than a year ago started renovating a deserted space in the Dashanzi art district with the money they made from selling their Turner collection.

And the result is a fantastic gallery cum museum cum meeting point for artists, academics and visitors.

The UCCA was officially opened last month and today was my first visit.

There was a question about why people had to pay 30RMB for admission, but one can quickly see why. The space is done up so well and is practically a museum, showcasing their collection. They also have well-suited security guards, young men who also know a bit about the art on the walls to answer questions from inquisitive visitors.

And appropriately the inaugural exhibition is a retrospective of these New Wave artists.

At the entrance is a series of Chinese scrolls hung from the ceiling and several printed books laid out open to certain pages.

It's called "A Book from the Sky" by Xu Bing. This artist created some 1,000 new Chinese characters that don't exist and published them in these books and scrolls.

Two artists named Wang Luyan and Ge Dexin made a series called "Tactile Art". They think art should communicate and in a graphic art kind of way they have achieved it.

In one, there is a sort of square with a half circle on the left and one on the right, and they merge in the middle. On the left and the right it says "shou" or "hand" and in the middle where they are merged it says "handshake".

Wang Yong Ping is considered controversial. He had a retrospective show at the Vancouver Art Gallery where some reptiles were in glass boxes as part of his work. Animal rights activists thought this was cruel and some of these exhibits were taken off.

And another one of his work was "unexpectedly removed" from UCCA. He had taken scrolls, put them in a washing machine and used the remnants to form traditional Chinese tombs. Some people may have found this offensive.

Despite the brouhaha, it's great to see a fantastic collection of contemporary Chinese art before the madness at the auction block. And to have it back in China.

The artists have thought long and hard about what they want to say and then carefully decided how they are going to execute it artistically to create an effective piece of art.

This collection makes the rest of the art work in 798 pale in comparison; the other galleries are mostly filled with attention-grabbing "art" that is just done for shock value rather than with any thoughtful statement.

One featured a former bar waitress naked, posing with four suited men in various corporate settings. What does that say other than a woman having control in the board room?

Hopefully the works in the UCCA gallery will inspire the young artists of today to work hard at their art instead of thinking about dollar signs.

Saturday, December 8, 2007

New Merchandise


Every time I go to Panjiayuan I always see new things there.

And yesterday I may have spotted a new trend.

These giant towels or blankets were on sale... showing Lin Biao clutching a little red book and looking at Chairman Mao waving.

There were at least two of these at the market.

I didn't ask how much they were, but maybe this wall hanging or beach towel will be the next in thing for Communist souvenir hunters.

Another American in Beijing


In the summer I watched some jazz performed by a trombonist from New York.

And last night I had the chance to watch another jazz great, Matthew Shipp perform.

He's considered one of the leading avant garde jazz scene in the Big Apple and I can see why.

We went to a club hidden along Dongsishitiao, next to a temple. And inside was a beautiful large space with some couches and a bar, then some bar tables and chairs near the stage.

A local jazz band warmed up the audience and a few of those musicians played at the summer gig I went to.

After an hour-long set and then a 15-minute break, Shipp wandered on stage from the back, sat at the baby grand piano and then started playing -- non stop -- for an hour.

His large hands ran over the keys effortlessly and then at times it looked like he would stumble on them but in fact they were calculated and precise. The only way for me to describe his music is like a Chinese painting -- there were patches of dark spaces and white ones, brush strokes that were wet and dry, all coming together to create a vibrant piece.

At one point he stood up to play and then reached over and strummed the strings of the piano. It was as if he was having an internal conversation with himself.

You can't listen to Shipp's music like a background tune -- audience has to concentrate on his music and his performance all in one.

Apparently catching him at the Montreal Jazz Festival would have cost $50. But in Beijing, we were able to see him for 50RMB ($6.76).

Friday, December 7, 2007

The Glowing Helmsman


After the Fou Ts'ong piano recital in Zhongshan Park I decided to take a stroll along Chang'an Avenue instead of rushing to the subway to get home.

And I stopped in front of the Forbidden City to take some night shots of Mao all lit up.

When I turned around to face the busy traffic and look towards Tiananmen Square, a bus passed right by me and I saw a reflection of Mao.

Luckily another bus came by and this is the picture I took.